Mudmotor maintenance thread

[Dead Ringer]

Most of this you already know, but just in case you don't, I wanted to start a thread to point out what you need to do to maintain your mud motor. I am in the middle of a very frustrating and very expensive rebuild of my Mudbuddy because I didn't know about some of these. (for you PD owners: nsert MB slam here), but the point is, I don't want anyone, regardless of brand, to have to rebuild a motor because they missed something. And please, if I missed something, or made an error, feel free to adjust.

-Oil and oil filter (please short-change)
-Air filter and pre-cleaner
-Spark plugs
-Fuel treatment (whenever stored)
-Fuel filter (buy a see-through one so you can anticipate issues)
-*Grease lower unit shaft (ignore the 3yr, 300hr note in the manual. SHORT-
CHANGE!!!)
-Check valve clearance (every 100hrs: 0.10-0.15 mm, exhaust slightly higher
than intake)
-Grease motor mount swivels
-Check belt tension
-Clean outside of oil cooler
-Clean cooling fins (including those inside front fan)
-Lubricate throttle with graphite
- Check belt-drive casing for moisture

[Kevin Hall]

Good points!

Some of these are PD specific ...

Briggs & Stratton recommends 50 hours on an oil change ... I usually change mine around 30-40 hours. It only takes a couple of quarts (35/36 hp).

With today's ethanol-blended gas, I definitely recommend some sort of treatment/stabilizer. I use Seafoam ... as do a lot of others.

As far a throttle lubrication ... PD recommends silicone or teflon (Tri-flo). PD uses a plastic/rubber bushing in the throttle/tiller handle .... DO NOT use WD-40! (or any other petroleum derivitive) It will cause the throttle assembly bushing to swell and stick in place.

Lower unit on PD ... change the oil & inspect seal areas for leaks. It takes less than a quart of 80w-90w gear oil ... the same stuff used in outboards

[duckbone]

Here's a good maintenance tip for everything boats
Run them all the time don't let them sit.
The more mudfests the better for your boat.

[Dead Ringer]

Here's a good maintenance tip for everything boats
Run them all the time don't let them sit.
The more mudfests the better for your boat.

Same goes for trailers. Keep it moving and it will last longer. That is unless you have dry rotted tires and are driving really fast to get to the mudfest :p

[Randy Clark]

Here's a good maintenance tip for everything boats
Run them all the time don't let them sit.
The more mudfests the better for your boat.

use it or lose it. works with boats to. eh pat?

[duckmanJR]

I believe in that..

My '05 Suzuki 4 stroke now has just over 1000 hours on it....other than a few dings and scrapes it runs as good as the day i bought it...no "issues" with E-10 fuel..because i burn it out every day!
It has has AMSOIL synthetic since new in the powerhead and lower unit....If i can keep from running her hot..she'll outlast me! :)

[duckbone]

Same goes for trailers. Keep it moving and it will last longer. That is unless you have dry rotted tires and are driving really fast to get to the mudfest :p

Those tires only had one full season on them in my mind thats not much untill on the way home with my two brand new tires I counted up how many days and how many miles that was.

[Raul G]

I think I will switch over to synthetic fuel (Mobil 1) on my 2004 Kohler MB longtail. I have heard too many good reports that it's worth the try. Keep the carb clean- this has been the one repeat problem on my four different motors thus far (One Briggs, three Kohlers). With Sta-bil or Seafoam you can avoid some of these. As was said, don't let the motor "rest" too long. Before the season I check the motor mount bolts and generally tighten everything up and check for loose items elsewhere. The battery should be monitored closely and a backup enlisted (tractor battery or emergency start box). I even carry a spare prop and tools to do a change in the field after last season's prop shearing. Good points about the trailer! The only thing not invented yet are long-lasting trailer lights!

[D Duck]

The only thing not invented yet are long-lasting trailer lights!
Raul - change over to LED's. No maintenance, no problems.

[duckbone]

Maybe that a good project for next summer is to build myself an aluminum float on jon boat trailer. I don't know if I've ever seen one.

[D Duck]

Unless you overbuild the heck out of it Pat, you might be sorry. Aluminum just isn't strong/rigid enough for the way we treat our duckboat trailers.

[jeepcj7]

John, you've got a great list going. Here's another item: install a fuel/water separator. I personally recommend and install a Racor filter specifically made for small motors (25gph). This is in line with comments above regarding keeping the carb clean, sea foam, etc. I've had motors in the shop with water in the gas that had to be completely drained of fuel in the carb and fuel line before they would run. In addition, this water separator has a replaceable 10 mic filter element that can be easily replaced once a year.

[duckbone]

Unless you overbuild the heck out of it Pat, you might be sorry. Aluminum just isn't strong/rigid enough for the way we treat our duckboat trailers.

Me, overbuild something?

[Keith Yates]

Pat be mindful of an aluminum trailers around Fellsmere. They have a way of disappearing as you are out in the marsh for some reason.

[duckmanJR]

Those tires only had one full season on them in my mind thats not much untill on the way home with my two brand new tires I counted up how many days and how many miles that was.

They may have been very old when you bought them...there is a way of reading the year of manufacture....

[duckmanJR]

Raul - change over to LED's. No maintenance, no problems.

*OR*

put them out of the water on your guide-ons

*OR*

Make a light mount that either clamps on or as I have..one from PVC that fits neatly into the stern rod holders and has a cross bar of PVC that the lights and tag are attached to...you take it off prior to launch and keep inside the truck...and they last?? I don't know..but mine are from 1986.....

Bottom line...if they never get "dipped"..they last forever basicly.

[duckmanJR]

John, you've got a great list going. Here's another item: install a fuel/water separator. I personally recommend and install a Racor filter specifically made for small motors (25gph). This is in line with comments above regarding keeping the carb clean, sea foam, etc. I've had motors in the shop with water in the gas that had to be completely drained of fuel in the carb and fuel line before they would run. In addition, this water separator has a replaceable 10 mic filter element that can be easily replaced once a year.

Super advise on the Raycor Juan... I have them on all my boats...carb problems are a thing of the past..just make sure you watch the "bowl" and replace the spin on element at least once a year( I burn so much fuel in my skiff I do it twice a year...maybe overkill but...)

For little MM's..We change oil before storage..so it isn't sitting with contaminated oil( you'd be surprized at how many people don't think about that ) Then, take the tank off the motor and drain it and put 30 wt oil coating inside...and *drain carb and fuel line completely* No issues....fresh fuel and you are good to go!

[Dead Ringer]

I got a few questions about some of the checks. I'm just internet-taught and make it up as I go along (with a some much appreciated help from Juan Fernandez), but I think that this is what you are supposed to do. If I get something wrong, PLEASE FILL ME IN.

Check the valve clearance would entail taking the valve rocker cover off, setting the motor to Top Dead Center, and using a feeler gauge to measure/adjust the rockers. The gauge is <$10 at a auto parts or sears. The recommended range (for my motor, check your manual) is 0.10-0.15mm (not ''). Some of these slides show you the general looks of things (http://www.tarleton.edu/~mcgregor/A%20EN%202013/2013%20Labs/Reassembly/OHV.Reassembly.ppt) and this page (http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/display/router.asp?docid=101552)gives you specific instructions on how to set TDC and guage it. Your exhaust should be slightly larger than intake, so I set the intake (fore on the motor) to 0.13 and the exhaust (aft) to 0.15. Err on the side of too loose, not too tight. Too tight = less fuel mileage, harder starts, way too tight = potential for damage. Also, don't start the project until you have secured NEW VALVE COVER GASKETS, because you might tear the old ones opening it up and it's a good idea to replace them anyway. I'm currently waiting for some to come in on order :rolleyes: so I can seal up the motor.

As for the coolers, just check the cooling waffles (and oil cooler) for any obstructions or heavy surface contamination that might reduce their cooling ability. I haven't found any on mine yet, but they just want you to keep an eye on it.

Hope everything purrs when you are done.

[Dead Ringer]

And as for trailer lights, DO NOT buy the STS LED trailer lights from Boater's World. The bulb would last forever if only the internal circuitry would. The guy at the store told me they come back all the time. Rather than ship mine to FL for an exchange, I'll be buying a better quality LEDs that won't 1/2 burn out in <1yr.

[Dead Ringer]

Joe, where are you putting the "oil coating"?

[whistlingwings]

John, Joe's coating the inside of the fuel tank with oil to prevent it from rusting while in storge.

On another note, briggs manuals list valve clearances in inches.
.005 -.007 is the norm for stock vanguard OHV. Most feeler gauge sets are stamped both in inches and mm. Some are stamped only in MM. Could be a point of confusion for some people.

If you have a modded engine (billet push rods or shimmed springs) open the valve gap up to .008 intake and exhaust) This keeps the pressure rate down slightly near normal on the cam barring early failure or excessive wearing of the cam lobes

Some guys recommend setting the engine 1/4" past top dead center. Only necessary if your speficic engine model incorporates a compression release system

Check your mufflers also, a good solid knock with ball of your hand will indicate loose baffles by a rattling sound. When the engine is put in the travel position (Hz orientation), loose particles can fall into the cylinders wreaking havoc on spark plugs, or worse yet causing internal damage such as cylinder wall scoring or bent valves.

[BlindHog]

And as for trailer lights, DO NOT buy the STS LED trailer lights from Boater's World. The bulb would last forever if only the internal circuitry would. The guy at the store told me they come back all the time. Rather than ship mine to FL for an exchange, I'll be buying a better quality LEDs that won't 1/2 burn out in <1yr.

So what is a good LED taillight to use?

Can I assume anything Walmart sells would have cheapo internal circuitry? We dont have a Boater's World here, just West MArine and the couple of boat dealers. I would likely buy over internet.

[Dead Ringer]

I don't know, but I still have 6 out of 12 working diodes in each light, so I'm not in the market yet. I've always been happy with Petersons's Manufacturing products, so I might try these when the time comes:

http://www.pmlights.com/products.cfm?cId=1&fId=62&pId=2340

[whistlingwings]

Check your mount clamp and make sure your motor is bolted down to the transom. Had 2 rigs in this week that came from somewhere without being bolted on and both engines hit the road, with mention of a 3rd in the same condition.:angry2: